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Types of Woven Fabrics
Woven fabrics are classified as to weave or structure according to the manner in which warp and weft cross each other. The three fundamental weaves, of which others are variations, are the plain, twill, and satin. In plain weave, also known as calico, tabby, taffeta, or homespun weaves, the weft passes over alternate warp threads, requiring two harnesses only. The relatively simple construction suits it to cheap fabrics, heavy yarns, and printed designs. Variations are produced by the use of groups of yarns, as in basket weave and monk's cloth, or by alternating fine and coarse yarns to make ribbed and corded fabrics, as the warp-ribbed Bedford cord, piqué, and dimity and the weft-ribbed poplin, rep, and grosgrain. The second primary weave, twill, shows a diagonal design made by causing weft threads to interlace two to four warp threads, moving a step to right or left on each pick and capable of variations, such as herringbone and corkscrew designs. Noted for their firm, close weave, twill fabrics include gabardine, serge, drill, and denim. Satin weave has floating or overshot warp threads on the surface which reflect light, giving a characteristic luster. When the uncrossed threads are in the weft, the weave is called sateen.
Pile fabrics have an additional set of yarns drawn over wires to form loops, and may be cut or uncut. Warp-pile fabrics include terry and plush; weft-pile, velveteen and corduroy. In double-cloth weave two cloths are woven at once, each with its warp and filling threads, and combined by interlacing some yarns or by adding a fifth set. The cloth may be made for extra warmth or strength, to permit use of a cheaper back, or to produce a different pattern or weave on each surface, e.g., steamer rugs, heavy overcoating, and machine belting. Velvet is commonly woven as a double cloth. In swivel weaving, extra shuttles with a circular motion insert filling yarns to form simple decorations, such as the dots on swiss muslin. Figure weaves are made by causing warp and weft to intersect in varied groups. Simple geometric designs may be woven on machine looms by using a cam or a dobby attachment to operate the harnesses. For curves and large figures each heddle must be separately governed. The Jacquard loom attachment permits machine weaving of the most complicated designs.
How are woven fabrics classified?
Woven fabrics are classified as to weave or structure according to the manner in which warp and weft cross each other. The three fundamental weaves, of which others are variations, are the plain, twill, and satin.
Types of Woven Fabrics
Following are some of the kinds/types of woven cotton fabric, cloth, material, textile:
Basket Weave:
A cloth woven of two or more threads interlaced to suggest the weave of a basket.
Calico:
Coarse cloth with a bright print.
Cambric:
A finely woven white linen.
Canvas, Canvass:
Heavy closely woven fabric (used for clothing or chairs or sails or tents).
Challis:
A soft lightweight fabric (usually printed).
Chambray:
A lightweight fabric woven with white threads across a colored warp.
A coarse twilled cotton fabric used for uniforms.
Chintz:
A brightly printed and glazed cotton fabric.
Cotton, Cotton Cloth:
Fabric woven from cotton fibers.
Damask:
A fabric of linen or cotton or silk or wool with a reversible pattern woven into it.
Dimity:
A strong cotton fabric with a raised pattern; used for bedcovers and curtains.
Drapery:
Cloth gracefully draped and arranged in loose folds.
Duck:
A heavy cotton fabric of plain weave; used for clothing and tents.
Elastic:
An elastic fabric made of yarns containing an elastic material.
Fustian:
A strong cotton and linen fabric with a slight nap.
Gabardine:
A firm durable fabric with a twill weave.
Herringbone:
A twilled fabric with a herringbone pattern.
Hop sacking, Hop sack:
A loosely woven coarse fabric of cotton or linen; used in clothing.
Khaki:
A sturdy twilled cloth of a yellowish brown color used especially for military uniforms.
Linen:
A fabric woven with fibers from the flax plant.
A light patterned cotton cloth.
Marseille:
Strong cotton fabric with a raised pattern; used for bedspreads.
Moreen:
A heavy fabric of wool (or wool and cotton) used especially in upholstery.
Muslin:
Plain-woven cotton fabric.
Percale:
A fine closely woven cotton fabric.
Pique:
Tightly woven fabric with raised cords.
Poplin:
A ribbed fabric used in clothing and upholstery.
Print:
A fabric with a dyed pattern pressed onto it (usually by engraved rollers).
Quilting:
A material used for making a quilt, or a quilted fabric.
Sackcloth:
A coarse cloth resembling sacking.
Sailcloth:
A strong fabric (such as cotton canvas) used for making sails and tents.
Sateen:
A cotton fabric with a satiny finish.
Satin:
A smooth fabric of silk or rayon; has a glossy face and a dull back.
Seersucker:
A light puckered fabric (usually striped).
Sheeting:
Fabric from which bed sheets are made.
Shirting:
Any of various fabrics used to make men’s shirts.
Shirttail:
Fabric forming the tail of a shirt.
A sturdy twill-weave cotton fabric; used for pockets and linings.
Spandex:
An elastic synthetic fabric.
Tammy:
Plain-Woven (often glazed) fabric of wool or wool and cotton used especially formerly for linings and garments and curtains.
Tapestry, Tapis:
A heavy textile with a woven design; used for curtains and upholstery.
Terry, Terrycloth:
A pile fabric (usually cotton) with uncut loops on both sides; used to make bath towels and bath robes.
Twill:
A cloth with parallel diagonal lines or ribs.
Upholstery material:
The fabric used in upholstering.
Wash-and-Wear, Wash-and-Wear Fabric:
A fabric treated to be easily washable and to require no ironing
Types of Fibers
In today’s world, functional fabrics are a mixture of two or more different fibers. (e.g., 50% cotton 50% polyester). They will affect how your clothes feel and behave.
The following list is separated into 3 categories: natural fibers, manufactured fibers, and protein fibers. Protein fibers are those like silk and wool that are obtained from an animal and are not vegan friendly. Manufactured fibers are usually made of chemicals. They will typically dry faster than natural fibers and can develop stubborn pilling.
Cotton
Very cool, absorbent, and comfortable. Takes a long time to dry compared to other fibers. Will shrink when you wash it. Medium strength. Ages well. Used in many things, for example t-shirts, jeans, underwear, and upholstery. Combed cotton is softer and better quality than regular cotton.
Very cool, absorbent, and comfortable. Takes a long time to dry compared to other fibers. Will shrink when you wash it. Medium strength. Ages well. Used in many things, for example t-shirts, jeans, underwear, and upholstery. Combed cotton is softer and better quality than regular cotton.
Flax (linen)
Cool and absorbent, like cotton. Wrinkles badly, need a very hot iron to get rid of wrinkles. Shrinks in water, dry cleaning is recommended. Usually used in summer clothing and home decor.
Cool and absorbent, like cotton. Wrinkles badly, need a very hot iron to get rid of wrinkles. Shrinks in water, dry cleaning is recommended. Usually used in summer clothing and home decor.
Ramie
Similar to cotton and linen, but fairly expensive.
Similar to cotton and linen, but fairly expensive.
Polyester
Does not wrinkle. Does not absorb water well. Dries quickly, doesn’t shrink in water. Not very comfortable when a garment is 100% polyester. One of the cheapest fibers. Very strong. Also called terylene.
Does not wrinkle. Does not absorb water well. Dries quickly, doesn’t shrink in water. Not very comfortable when a garment is 100% polyester. One of the cheapest fibers. Very strong. Also called terylene.
Rayon
Similar to cotton: cool, absorbent, and comfortable. Wrinkles easily and has only fair strength. Also called viscose.
Similar to cotton: cool, absorbent, and comfortable. Wrinkles easily and has only fair strength. Also called viscose.
Nylon
Strongest major fiber. Very stretchy. Not very absorbent, therefore not very comfortable.
Strongest major fiber. Very stretchy. Not very absorbent, therefore not very comfortable.
Acetate
Very cheap, not very strong. Dry-clean only. Feels silky and comfortable. Usually used in linings.
Very cheap, not very strong. Dry-clean only. Feels silky and comfortable. Usually used in linings.
Spandex
Very stretchy, will recover instantly to same size. Best used in small percentages to add comfort to a non-stretchy fabric. Also called lycra.
Very stretchy, will recover instantly to same size. Best used in small percentages to add comfort to a non-stretchy fabric. Also called lycra.
Acrylic
Doesn’t wrinkle easily, good strength. Used as a cheaper, more washable substitute for wool and also in fake furs.
Doesn’t wrinkle easily, good strength. Used as a cheaper, more washable substitute for wool and also in fake furs.
PVC/Polyurethane
Stretchy and waterproof. Usually one side of fabric will be PVC/polyurethane, the other side (backing) will be another fiber like polyester. Doesn’t breathe and is not very comfortable if used for an entire garment.
Stretchy and waterproof. Usually one side of fabric will be PVC/polyurethane, the other side (backing) will be another fiber like polyester. Doesn’t breathe and is not very comfortable if used for an entire garment.
Silk
Comes from a silkworm. Comfortable, absorbent, wrinkles easily (especially when wet). Sometimes dry-clean only. Very thin.
Comes from a silkworm. Comfortable, absorbent, wrinkles easily (especially when wet). Sometimes dry-clean only. Very thin.
Wool
Comes from a sheared sheep. Strong, warm, dry, doesn’t wrinkle easily. Can be coarse and itchy, but high quality wool is soft. Dry-cleaning works best.
Comes from a sheared sheep. Strong, warm, dry, doesn’t wrinkle easily. Can be coarse and itchy, but high quality wool is soft. Dry-cleaning works best.
Mohair
Comes from an angora goat. Softer and shinier than wool. Expensive.
Comes from an angora goat. Softer and shinier than wool. Expensive.
Leather
Comes from dead animals. Strong and absorbent.
Comes from dead animals. Strong and absorbent.
Types of Fabric Weaves
Fabric weave is the pattern for manufacturing a fabric. The yarns are used in different ways to produce various effects or weaves. These weaves can be plain and simple as well as artistic and decorative.
Plain weave is the most simple and common type of construction which is inexpensive to produce, durable, flat having tight surface on which printing and other finishes can be easily applied. The examples of plain weave fabrics arecrepe, taffeta, organdy, cotton calicos, cheesecloth, gingham, percale, voile and muslin.
Satin weave, although more complicated, is a flexible type of weave than the plain weave. It is called 'satin' when filament fibers such as silk or nylon are used and is called 'sateen' when short-staple yarns like cotton is used to make it. The satin weave is lustrous with a smooth surface and it drapes in an excellent manner. The examples of satin weave fabrics are bocade, brocatelle, crepe-satin, satin, peau de soie, velvet satin etc.
Twill weave is somewhat similar to plain weave. Twill weave is durable, heavier, wrinkle and soil resistant, and is more flexible than plain weave. The examples of twill weave fabrics are covert cloth, drill, jean, jersey, tussah, velvet, worsted cheviot etc.
Twill weave is somewhat similar to plain weave. Twill weave is durable, heavier, wrinkle and soil resistant, and is more flexible than plain weave. The examples of twill weave fabrics are covert cloth, drill, jean, jersey, tussah, velvet, worsted cheviot etc.
Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which the fabrics have a loose construction and a flat look. It is more flexible and stronger but less stable than a plain weave. This weave is used in composites industry, outerwear, monk's cloth and drapery fabrics etc.
Jacquard weave is for creating complex patterns on fabrics and is woven on jacquard loom. The fabrics made through this weave have floats, luster, and are more stable and stretchy than the basic weaves. Some of its examples are matelasse, satin Faconne etc. It is used for upholstery and drapery. Rib weave is a basic weave which produces ribs on the fabric. Resulting fabric is abrasion and tear resistant examples of which are broadcloth, cord fabric, faille, poplin, taffeta etc.
Dobby, a decorative weave results in small designs or geometric figures all over the woven fabric. It is done through dobby machines. This weave uses various yarns from very fine to coarse and fluffy yarns to produce a variety of fabrics. The standard dobby weave fabrics are flat and comparatively fine. Some examples are moss crepe, matelasse etc. Heavy dobby fabrics are used for home furnishings and for heavy apparel.
Leno weave fabric is transparently thin, durable, strong and permits passage of both light and air through it. Examples of fabrics with leno weave are gauze, net, tulle etc. The leno weave fabrics are used for light-weight membrane, laminating fabrics, making medium weight blankets etc.
Cut pile is a carpet fabric in which the surface of the carpet is made of cut ends of pile yarn. It is durable depending upon the kind of fiber used, density of the tufts and the number of twists in the yarn.Examples of cut pile are cisele velvet, velour , saxony etc.
Uncut pile, also called loop pile or rounded loops, produces fabric without cutting the ends of yarns as opposed to cut pile. The resulting fabrics are very strong with which very strong carpets are made. They are also used for making towels. Examples are terry cloth, terry velour, moquette, etc.
Double knit is a circular knit fabric having loops on both sides. It is made on circular knitting machines. The constructed fabric is very heavy. The fabrics such as cotton, wool, silk, rayon and synthetics are used for double knit and are made into pants, skirts, tunics, jackets, scarfs, hats, bandages etc.
Chenile fabric is usually a soft wool, silk, cotton, or rayon yarn with protruding pile having fur-like texture which resembles velvet. It is generally used for making sweaters, outerwear,upholstery, curtains, rugs, throws and blankets etc.
The different types of textiles:
1) Cotton
2) Wool
3) Silk
4) Nylon
5) Polyester
A textile is a cloth, which is either woven by hand or machine. "Textile" has traditionally meant, "a woven fabric". The term comes from the Latin word texere, meaning to weave.
Fibers are the raw materials for all fabrics. Some fibers
occur in nature as fine strands that can be twisted into yarns. These natural fibers come from plants, animals, and minerals. For most of history, people had only natural fibers to use in making cloth. But modern science has learned how to produce fibers by chemical and technical means. Today, these manufactured fibers account for more than two-thirds of the fibers processed by Plants provide more textile fibers than do animals or minerals.Cotton fibers produce soft, absorbent fabrics that are widely used for clothing, sheets, and towels. Fibers of the flax plant are made into linen. The strength and beauty of linen have made it a popular fabric for fine tablecloths, napkins, and handkerchiefs.
The main animal fiber used for textiles is wool. Another animal fiber, silk, produces one of the most luxurious fabrics. Sheep supply most of the wool, but members of
the camel family and some goats also furnish wool.Wool provides warm, comfortable fabrics for dresses, suits, and sweaters. Silk comes from cocoons spun by silkworms. Workers unwind the cocoons to obtain long, natural filaments. Fabrics made fromsilk fibers have great luster and softness and can be dyed brilliant colors. Silk is especially popular for scarfs and neckties.
Most manufactured fibers are made from wood pulp, cotton linters, or petrochemicals. Petrochemicals are chemicals made from crude oil and natural gas.The chief fibers manufactured from petrochemicals include nylon, polyester, acrylic, and olefin. Nylon has exceptional strength, wears well, and is easy to launder. It is popular for hosiery and other clothing and for carpeting and upholstery. Such products as conveyor belts and fire hoses are also made of nylon.
Most textiles are produced by twisting fibers into yarns and then knitting or weaving the yarns into a fabric. This method of making cloth has been used for thousands of years. But throughout most of that time, workers did the twisting, knitting, or weaving largely by hand. With today's modern machinery, textile mills can manufacture as much fabric in a few seconds as it once
took workers weeks to produce by hand.
Fabric Weaves
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Fabric weave is the pattern of weave or structure given to the fabric. It is an ancient textile art and craft, which places two, threads or yarn onto a warp and weft of a loom to produce a cloth. The woven cloth can be plain, in single color or in a simple pattern, or it may be woven in decorative or artistic designs.
Fabrics are woven on jacquard looms or dobby looms. The simple weave is usually done on a dobby looms where as the complicated patterns are done on the jacquard looms. The weave on the jacquard looms is controlled by a computer. Jacquard looms are more popular and more economical. It weaves fast and in bulk.
Types of Fabric Weaves
Fabrics are woven on jacquard looms or dobby looms. The simple weave is usually done on a dobby looms where as the complicated patterns are done on the jacquard looms. The weave on the jacquard looms is controlled by a computer. Jacquard looms are more popular and more economical. It weaves fast and in bulk.
Types of Fabric Weaves
| Plain Weave - Each filling yarn passes over and under each warp yarn with each row alternating. |
| Satin Weave - The face of the fabric consists only the warp or the weft threads, giving the fabric a very smooth and lustrous surface. |
| Twill Weave - It is similar to plain weave. In this the warp yarns skip at regular predetermined intervals creating a diagonal rib in the weave. |
| Basket Weave - Two or more warp yarns cross alternately side-by-side with two or more filling yarns. It resembles a plaited basket. |
| Jacquard Weave - Fabrics woven on a Jacquard loom. |
| Rib Weave - It is a plain weave type formed with heavy yarns in the warp or the filling direction. |
| Dobby Weave - It is a decorative weave, which is characterised by small designs or geometric figures being woven in the fabric structure. |
| Leno Weave - In this the warp yarns are arranged in pairs. One yarn being twisted around the other between picks of the filling yarn. |
| Oxford Weave - A group of fabrics made with modified plain weave or basket weave. Usually made for shirting materials. |
| Cut Pile - It is specially for a carpet fabric where the face of the fabric is composed of cut ends of pile yarn. |
| Uncut Pile - This is a pile of carpet consisting of loops. |
| Double Knit - This is a type of circular knit fabric of double thickness.. |
| Chenile Fabric - A soft wool, silk, cotton, or rayon yarn with protruding pile. |
Fabric Care Products
| Dry Clean | | |
| Acetate Brocade Silk Brocade Challis Crepe (silk & Foulard Gabardine (silk and wool) Rayon Voile (silk) Washer silk Sharkskin Pique Slipper satin Taffeta Pongee Velvet Ramie Velveteen Seersucker, Viscose Terry cloth Viyella Velour Wool Washer Rayon | Acrylic Batiste Boucle Cambric Polyester Cotton knit Linen Chambray Dimity Denim Viyella (cold water) Jacquard Doeskin Voile(poly cotton) Knits Faille Woolblends Leno Lame Novelty knits Linen Gingham Noil Jacquard (poly and cotton) Plisse Madras Percale Spandex | Antique Fabric Antique lace |
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| Different types of weaves | ||
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| By : Rahul Garg, Shivendra Parmar | ||
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| 1. Introduction: Fabric are manufactured in wide varieties and design. And the different design and effect is produced on the fabric with the help for various mechanism which is helpful to from different weaves and lots of design which enhances the look of apparels. The present paper was aimed at investigating the different types of weaves and also overview the fabrics come under the different weave categories. 2. Types of Weaves: 2.1 Plain Weave: Most simple and most common type of construction Inexpensive to produce, durable, Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes. The simplest of all patterns is the plain weave. Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and under each weft yarn. Some examples of plain weave fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin. The plain weave may also have variations including the following:
 Method of Construction: Each filling yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarnsHousehold Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery. Different types of Fabric Come under this Category;
2.2 Basket Weave: A variation of the plain weave usually basket or checkerboard pattern Contrasting colors are often used Inexpensive, less durable than plain weave. Basket weave is the amplification in height and width of plain weave. Two or more yarns have to be lifted or lowered over or under two or more picks for each plain weave point. When the groups of yarns are equal, the basket weave is termed regular, otherwise it is termed irregular. |
Print Article | 
There two types of weave come under this category i.e. regular and irregular weave.
a) Regular basket weave: This is commonly used for edges in drapery, or as a bottom in very small weave repeats, because the texture is too loose-fitting for big weave repeats; moreover, yarns of different groups can slip, group and overlap, spoiling the appearance. This is why only basket weaves 2-2, 3-3 and 4-4 exist.
b) Irregular basket weave: This is generally a combination of irregular warp and weft ribs.
Method of Construction: Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings.
Household Uses: Wall hangings, pillows.
Example of Basket weave:
- Monks cloth: Heavy cotton Cloth in a coarse basket weave, chiefly used for draperies.
2.3 Twill Weave: Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design. The design is enhanced with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine. Twill weave is characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on the surface. These may vary in angle from a low slope to a very steep slope. Twill weaves are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber and yarn size. They can be produced in fancy designs.
Method of Construction: Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left
Household Uses: Upholstery, comforters, pillows.
Types of Fabrics:Denim: A Strong Warp Face Cotton Cloth used for overall, Jeans skirts etc. Largely made in 3/1 twill weave. Generally warp yarn is dyed brown or blue and crossed with white weft.
Gabardine: A Warp Face cloth mostly woven 2/2 twill, 27/2 
2.4 Satin:
- Smooth, soft luster
- Excellent drapability
- Floats snag easily
Method of Construction:
- Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth face
- Common Fabrics: Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton & Charmeuse
Household Uses: Draperies, quilts
| Examples of Fabric:
2.5 Jacquard:  Jacquard patterns, when carefully analyzed, may be seen to contain combinations of plain, twill, and satin weaves, even in the same crosswise yarn. Many decorative fabrics are made by the jacquard technique. Yarns woven into unlimited designs, often intricate, multicolor effect. Expensive, but the design dont fade or wear out. Durability depends on the fiber used. The Jacquard loom was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard.Method of Construction: Warp is individually controlled with each pick passage creating intricate designs Household Uses: Upholstery, wall hangings Types of Jacquard fabric;
2.6 Leno or Gauze: In leno or gauze weave pairs of warps are twisted over each other with each passing of filling yarn. The leno weave is the modern descendant of a technique called twining that was used thousands of years ago for making fabrics. In leno-weave fabrics, the warp yarns are paired. A special attachment, the doup or leno attachment, crosses or laps the paired warp yarns over each other, while the filling passes through the opening between the two warp yarns. Leno-weave fabrics are made in Open, gauzelike constructions. Method of Construction: A pair of warp threads is twisted over each other with each passing of filling yarn in a figure or an hourglass twist, creating a geometric pattern Household Uses: Thermal Blankets, curtains  2.7 Pile Fabric: Extra sets of warps or fillings are woven over ground yarns of plain or twill weave to form loops. Pile fabrics have been defined as fabrics(s) with cut or uncut loops which stand up densely on the surface Pile fabrics may be created by weaving or through other construction techniques, such as tufting, knitting, or stitch through. To create the loops that appears on the surface of woven pile fabrics, the weaving process.
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| 2.7.1 Uncut Pile:
Method of Construction: (Wire Method or double cloth Method): Generally a plain or twill weaves with a third dimension--additional warp yarn or filling yarn is introduced into the basic structure and forms a loop at regular intervals. Common Fabrics: Frieze, terry cloth Household Uses: Upholstery, towels, carpet, area rugs 2.7.2 Cut Pile:
Household uses: Upholstery, stage draperies. Different types of Cut pile Fabric: Corduroy: Corded velveteen Structures in which a weft pile forms longitudinal lines or chords, strong heavy clothes being used for trouser-rings, smoking jackets and lighter fabrics for dress materials. Velvet: A cut warp pile fabric with a short, soft, dense pile. Velveteen: A Short heavily wefted cotton fabric uniformly covered with a short dense pile of fibers which formed after the cloth has been woven by cutting certain picks of weft that float somewhat loosely on the surface. Acknowledgement: First of all I would like to express profound gratitude to the management of the SGS India Private LTD., Gurgaon for giving encouragement and guidance to work on this Article. References:
About the Authors: The authors are associated with SGS India Pvt. Ltd. Gurgaon, Haryana |
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